Slab climbing injuries reddit. The bottom of the footing is 13 ft below finished grade.
Slab climbing injuries reddit. I do some lead climbing, but the majority of my climbing is bouldering in the gym, due to convenience. Aug 27, 2024 · Discover expert tips and techniques to master slab climbing, one of the most challenging yet rewarding styles in the climbing gym. V7 in my style take a couple of days to get. The only exception being comp-style and especially running starts, as Jun 8, 2022 · Toe strength isn’t just handy for slab climbing—we need it and calf strength for holding kneebars, molding to dishes, and more. The pain went away a few minutes after the climb completely each time, which was okay my doc told me. I've been slowly working back up to it and took a big fall (17 feet) today on a scary slab. The bottom of the footing is 13 ft below finished grade. So, I was climbing at a gym last Sunday (one week ago), and I took a big fall as I tried to clip while lead climbing. So i guess my mind is comparing that type of soft tissue injury with this one. What is the difference between a contraction joint, isolation joint, expansion joint, construction joint, and a cold joint? A. This fibrocartilage complex is an important stabilizer of the wrist but can often become injured through overuse, from a fall onto an outstretch hand, or through degeneration with age (generally >50 years old). With the right amount of cardio worked in to lose weight, falling from height would become way Reddit's rock climbing training community. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Even with the best slab designs and proper construction, it is unrealistic to expect crack-free and curl-free floors. Especially just to In rock climbing we know slab and ledgy falls are way more likely to result in you getting flipped and/or catching your ankles, well unless you're a real hotshot most ice is undervertical and ledgy PLUS you have crampons to snag on the ice and axes waving around. I’ve implemented a regular pre- and especially post-climb stretching routine and I'm curious if you or anyone you know has used climbing specifically to strengthen back muscles and reduce back pain. And things start to feel vertical in terms of climbing style quite a bit before they actually are vertical. 1-2 hours per session with adequate rest between climbs twice or three times per week with rest days between is optimal. This injury occurs when downward force is applied to an ankle in an inverted position, with the big toe side of the foot up, and the little toe side down. After injuries I take time off and then come back slowly, but inevitably within a couple months the finger injuries are back to the dangerously nagging stage. I fell close to 20 feet, and I noticed later on in the day that my lower back really hurt where my harness is. It´s common for me to climb/train 6 times per week. The solution is still my favorite sport climbing shoe that I have tried, precise and makes me feel confident on even the smallest feet. Broke my arm and had surgery. Already had climbed a few time occasionally, but now I bought my first pair of shoes and plan on going more regularly. I love slab. My girlfriend and I were climbing on Martian Slab on Sunday, Sept 18th. They lasted me 3 1K votes, 59 comments. Thanks all. This guide covers the design of slabs-on-ground for loads from material stored directly on the slab, storage rack loads, and static and dynamic loads associated with equipment and vehicles. The most primary long term cause of gains in climbing, as with many sports, will depend on you keeping injuries at bay. ) drjuliansaunders Related Topics Climbing Sports comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment Climbing Injury in Peshastin Pinnacles I wanted to write a quick post here about an accident that recently happened near Leavenworth, WA, in the Peshastin Pinnacles State Park. I’ve been climbing for about a year. However recently, after several days of slab climbing & aggressive rockovers, I ended up having some troubles again. I'm wondering how some of you guys went about getting a proper diagnosis, assessing bad climbing habits that may have caused it, and rehablitaing the injury. says and hope that in a year or so (depending on injury) things improve and you can consider working towards climbing more. I think it's cause on overhangs I'm usually falling straight down onto the mat, whereas in slab climbs I'm scared a foot will slip unexpectedly and I'll hit every hold and volume on the way down. I’m honestly worried about it effecting my mental health because exercise is so important to stabilize myself. I also stick with mainly top rope/lead/auto belay and only boulder occasionally due to fear of injury by falls. There is no 'exercises to prevent injuries' as a specific magic bullet. Long-term effects on cracking are considered and crack-control Advantages and disadvantages of these slab design methods are provided, including the ability of some slab designs to minimize cracking and curling more than others. In my mind, a couple days or even a week of no climbing beats taking months off in 13 votes, 23 comments. During the summer, I was mostly working on slab technique as well as protection placement on easy trad routes. Discover the intricacies of slab climbing, a unique style that prioritizes finesse, balance, and technique over sheer strength. The building has a 10 ft high basement. I have cartoonishly long legs so it doesn’t help but not training my leg joints to be more stable is one of my greatest regrets climbing-wise. A few friends have suggested . 1 The most common mechanism of injury to the TFCC for climbers is either 1. Sure, maybe you don’t like slab or vert, but you definitely won’t get better at roof climbing or any kind of overhanging climbing that requires changing directions, lots of heel/toe hooks, etc. The best way to prevent injury is not overdoing climbing volume and doing enough strength exercises in contrast to your climbing. The only time since my Reddit's rock climbing training community. Reply reply bobombpom • Sep 16, 2021 · Climb easier routes with foot holds outside the crack or work on your sport climbing game for a while. An extension injury 3 Compression injuries may result from falling on a hand when Reddit's rock climbing training community. Unfortunately my gym doesn't have a whole lot of slabs set up, so I'd be doing the same 2 or 3 routes every time I went Reply reply More replies Carliios • Slab for technique? Hi everyone, I’d like some of your opinions regarding a discussion I’ve been having with my climbing partner. Route finding on old school run out climbs is a skill in itself. Currently rehabbing two minor pulley injuries and fully cleared by physio to keep climbing so long as they are taped for support and no full crimping. 158 votes, 128 comments. Not all injuries are the same but I hope you’re back to climbing soon! Injuries suck! Edit: I would like to add that my Airrosti provider encouraged me to keep climbing (very mildly) after a certain amount of treatment to gauge how I was healing. " But as u/FreackInAMagnum says, the style of climbing on a slab - friction, crimps, runnels - is way more informative than the exact angle. Because your adaptation is for your upper body, you will eventually (probably) gravitate towards slab climbing which is almost always a more foot-centric type of moves than powerful upper body overhangs. Climbers who climb at higher grades, or who boulder and lead climb in preference to top roping, place themselves at greater risk. Knuckles, elbows, shins, knees, sure. Did yours hurt pretty bad, say a week later or did pain mostly only Quick background info: i was climbing for maybe 30-45 minutes minimal stretching but tried to work my way through problems before trying hard got on a problem that was slab with good feet and some weird mono pocket start. trueThe best thing you can do at this stage is make time to climb more. Also should mention that I hurt the wrist initially in late September. What is this muscle that seems to be so overdeveloped in pro climbers? Is it the teres major? I’m curious because I’ve developed a pretty muscular back from climbing and training, but this muscle isn’t particularly prominent. (Great resource for climbing specific injury advice. Thanks Yes your finger strength is currently lacking as a new climber but the consensus seems to be hangboarding in the first year of climbing is likely to lead to over-use injuries on those tender finger tendies. Wondering if I’m being a fool and would be better off getting on the slab and vert walls more or should I just not worry and climb what gets me excited? 33 year old guy, climbing for a year. This time I literally run to the doc, as I was scared that the ligament might have been damaged: the knee was swollen, and sort of blocked for several days after a bouldering session. I've done three V8's. trueIs there a trend to the circumstances causing your injuries? Perhaps slipping off heel hooks? Or falling from slabs? I would see if there is a trend and only avoid that one thing if possible. Slabs for technique sounds like a really good idea, actually. I think I was back on the wall two weeks after my initial injury as a means of recovery. media, without the written consent of ACI. Hence, balance must be practiced in order to improve ankle stability and climbing ability. Thoughts, experiences, tips etc greatly appreciated. The technical committees responsible for ACI committee reports and standards strive to avoid ambiguities, A cast‐in‐place topping slab on precast elements Diaphragms that comprise precast elements with end strips formed by either a cast‐in‐place concrete topping slab or edge beams Diaphragms of interconnected precast elements without cast‐in‐place concrete topping. This is a thread for simple, or common training questions that don't merit their own individual threads as well as a place to ask Injury related questions. It’s possible that inefficient climbing movement or a muscle imbalance could be setting you up for a future injury. Inflammation was crazy intense for like a month. 2 years out from my tfcc tear, it sucks. it's also super easy to reinjure, so be careful when you start climbing again. Very diligent about warming up, strength training and antagonistic work. Aug 15, 2022 · The 2,000-foot Snake Dike is a well-known but extremely run-out moderate slab route, and pitches often feature 40 to 50 feet of climbing between bolts, with scant placements for pro. Fully dedicated to the most injury intensive discipline (bouldering) for the past 13 years. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. , 2012). I have been having this finger pulley injury since july. The home of Climbing on reddit. All while bouldering. 1. I listened to the Esther Smith episode of the Training Beta podcast about finger injuries today and have been taking notes on that. With things like this I always think it is best to do what the dr. This guide presents state-of-the-art information relative to the construction of slab-on-ground and suspended-slab floors for industrial, commercial, and institutional buildings. Jun 11, 2024 · Unlock the secrets to slab climbing with these tips from Rock Spot including keeping your heels down and edging with climbing shoes. In healthy populations, balance training three times a week for ten minutes has been shown to improve balance (Phillips et al. My elbow hit the wall on the way down right on my nerve, and I experienced some of the most severe pain I've ever felt. (Example: i avoid some gastons due to repeated shoulder injuries) There's no sense in avoiding climbing as a whole though Hopefully you can find a solution that works for you. You will need a really well balanced cycle to keep your body working, something that allows you to recover sufficiently and even more importantly for progress, keep your training high quality. Finger injuries are one of the most common climbing injuries and finger strength (in relationship to your body weight) is one of the most important indicators of climbing performance in advanced climbers. Hard heel/toe hooks and rock overs can really mess you up if they are at your limit. Reply reply Anthropocentrism • I prescribe slab climbing Reply reply professional-loser69 • I have a few innervated muscles in my shoulder (supraspinatus, infraspinatus) due to a brachial plexus injury long ago, and as of a few weeks ago that same shoulder has been grinding and clicking and popping, and only seems to be getting worse. Steeper climbs may be less painful than slab routes with delicate footwork and lots of sustained plantar flexion. I've always just climbed for fun. In countries where large magnitude earthquakes are frequent, conventional flat This guide presents state-of-the-art information relative to the construction of slab-on-ground and suspended-slab floors for industrial, commercial, and institutional buildings. started light climbing with wrist widget (v0-4), slowly I have avoided slab for a long time since spraining my ankle on it last January. The current state of knowledge in microcracking and fracture of concrete is reviewed. Has anyone returned to climbing after an injury like this? I currently have screws in my forearm to hold the bones in place. I’m assuming this is from lots of steep climbing on small crimps/board sessions, etc? I’m more of a technical face and slab climber. Should you wait for the soreness to be over to climb Agreed. The tapered slab structure is an improvement of the flat slab structural system. This is I have been doing some one handed slab climbing but am refraining from using the wrist to climb. I just had my first climbing injury- sprained my ankle. e. you didn't get a good night's rest), or you haven't stayed properly hydrated, then you should skip a session. A quick Google search will turn up no less than a dozen hangboarding protocols, with countless Reddit threads discussing each of them ad nauseam. A contraction joint is formed, sawed, or tooled groove in a concrete structure to create a weakened plane to regulate the location of cracking resulting The principal causes of cracking and recommended crack-control proce-dures are presented. trueI'm surprised by the lack of people suggesting rope climbing first. I then took 5 weeks with no climbing at all during August-September because I was traveling. Make liberal use of pads, spotters, downclimbing, and learn how to fall properly. I was wondering how many times per week to target. He claims that slab climbing is a sure-fire way to improve climbing technique (greater awareness of body position, balance etc). Hangboarding and keeping climbing volume in check. 94 votes, 57 comments. worst injury ever. I’m feeling so discouraged because I know I’ll lose a lot of progress but I really want to give my ankle a lot of time to heal. In my 20+ years of climbing, I have never smashed my face against the wall. There are various Just started going to a bouldering gym. Echoing what everyone else said: great for some strengths, but you’ll be missing out on movement technique. MembersOnline • HarryCaul ADMIN MOD Another reason why climbers hate slab climbing is related to the fact that slab climbing is completely different to overhang climbing. Eight weeks post-injury:, I tried some indoor lead climbing. The r/climbharder Master Sticky. I like it because I have adhd and usually a very loud and "busy" brain, climbing slab forces you to slow down, breath and be calm. I climb a little bit of everything, but I love slab, and end up spending probably 75 percent of my sessions on vertical or slab walls. Pros training every day have a LOT of training behind them just to adjust to the And consider taking up rope climbing if your injury averse. Read this and be familiar with it before asking questions. The idea was to keep climbing without putting too much stress on the fingers. For context I'm a 25y/o EMT. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I (27f) have osteoporosis in my back and hips so I’m similarly concerned about building strength while minimising risk. Watch technique videos like Neil Gresham's masterclasses on Youtube (link in the My biggest climbing injuries so far have been a ruptured ankle tendon and a tweaked LCL. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Commonly asked about topics I saw this article where their take home message is: "Many climbers sustain overuse injuries, particularly to their fingers, while climbing indoors. Fifteen years of climbing, more runout trad climbs than I can count, and my first serious injury was toproping in the gym. I experienced a really bad ankle tear a few years ago slab climbing in the South Platte. A compression injury or, 2. If your body is tired (i. From essential gear to top global locations, this article covers everything you need to navigate the world of less-than-vertical climbs with confidence Oh, hm. My right arm was fully extended to a small pinch, and my right foot was balancing on a micro jib. Improving Ankle Stability: Balance Balance is a critical element of successful climbing, and stabilization is a cornerstone in achieving it. Yeah grade 20 is pretty easy ( in terms of her limit) and 12 months is very inexperienced to be climbing a massive old school poorly protected run out slab. Early in my career I had a major muscular back injury which even after healing, left me with chronic pain and vulnerable to later "petty" back injuries (think severe pain and difficulty moving but for a short period of time). I’ve also just started climbing (3 months) and sort of in the same boat. I've banged and bumped all of those up, but never my face. Reply reply More replies perpetualwordmachine • I was thinking, wondering, do people usually have a big skill disparity between slab and overhang or not? Me and the people I climb with make a point to vary our climbing during our sessions, so we hit a bit of everything every time. However, what I am lacking is a regimented training schedule. It is applicable to the construction of normalweight and struc-tural lightweight concrete floors and slabs made with conven-tional portland and blended cements. What grip positions are safer for lumbricals while I do some very light slab/technique style climbing, and what aren't? Any recommendations on how to not strain it during climbing and what should I do in the future to keep it more injury free? Haha, yeah, just trying to put my mind at ease until I see someone in PT / at the doctors office next week. Climbing has literally never been painfree for me. Learn how to master precise footwork, subtle body movements, and effective use of friction on tilted rock surfaces. In the current era of training for climbing, finger strength is all the rage. Design and detail a typical square spread footing of a six bay by five bay seven-story building, founded on stiff soil, supporting a 24 in. The building is assigned to Seismic Design Category (SDC) B. backshores—shores placed snugly under a concrete slab or structural member after the original formwork and shores have been removed from a small area at a time, without allowing the slab or member to deflect, or support its own weight or existing construction loads. If you're doing climbing for fitness, climbing is extremely taxing on small muscles that don't burn very many calories, and relatively easy on large muscle groups compared to other activities. Techy/slabby V6's can take a session to get, my slab climbing needs work. Ankle sprains are the most common injury in the lower leg. ) Downclimbing yesterday I fell and slid down a slab. I thought I was warm enough and it was slab so I’m mostly balancing anyhow, and I start the problem. Rope climbing especially top rope is probably the safest form of climbing seeing as your not hitting the ground, there is still a chance of injury, but if you have a good partner the risks are exceptionally low. It also serves as a less intimidating way for new climbers to ask questions without worrying how it comes across. It’s “weather” if you count all of mountaineering, slip-and-falls in rock climbing specifically, and you can’t even count rappelling as “while climbing” because it’s not while climbing. Bouldering gym owners: I'm collecting best practises for gyms to prevent injuries. I could climb vertical routes, dihedrals and slabs up to 5. Climbing involves a lot of complex movements that aren't easily trained with isolation exercises. I find that I'm climbing a couple grades lower on slab problems compared to overhanging ones. 21 votes, 26 comments. square column. On the right side (my first injury), there was also a distinct feeling of instability & vulnerability in my shoulder with my arm raised above my head. And yes we are scared of falling. you'll probably never be 100%, but you might get close with a lot of rehab and strength training. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Well both were acute injuries (L side: slab climbing fall, R side: bicycle crash) so my very first sx were like numbness/tingling down my arm, and pain with flexion/abduction. I usually warm up on V3-4, flash a few 5s (slabby 5's can give me issues), V6 in my style (overhung) usually go in 2-4 attempts. Share Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A Add a Comment JCMoxie •• Edited Rest a full 48 hours in between climbing sessions; you should not be going everyday. One gym had a 50% reduction in injuries by using these methods, but more tips are very welcome! : r/bouldering TOPICS Gaming Sports Business Crypto Television Celebrity POPULAR POSTS Go to bouldering r/bouldering r/bouldering This "Injury Gospel" will help you prevent pesky injuries and heal them faster. See a physio with experience with climbing injuries if you can, they'll be able to direct you best for rehab and climbing specific exercises. Injury free. I really don't trust my feet. (Yes, I realize this sub is not a substitute for professional medical help. I find it very therapeutic and a much better experience than big burly muscley climbs. I love climbing, but if I were obese I absolutely wouldn't see the risk/reward being there. I guess I just looking for some advice from people who have been through this. As someone who's got a small pot belly and on the higher end of fat% among climbers, I find it way better to train on low bouldering walls and high wall auto belay first for both technique and cardio. I did 8 weeks wrist brace, 8 weeks wrist widget full time, then 8 weeks normal with no climbing. If you feel any kind of weird aches or pains (esp in your fingers), then stop climbing. Depends a lot on the nature and degree of the injury. You are much more likely to get a lower leg injury from taking a weird fall when bouldering. 10c with only little pain (2-3 on a scale from 1-10) around the injured area. Hey everyone. Also surprisingly durable for a high performance shoe, lasted 8 months before I resoled them could have probably pushed it another month or 2. After a few minutes it subsided and I had the usual "funny bone" symptoms: numbness, tingling and muscle weakness in my ring/pinky fingers on that Generally nagging injuries that get worse, I can't remember a time I've climbed where I didn't have at least some slight pain. The control of cracking due to drying shrinkage and crack control in flexural members, overlays, and mass con-crete construction are covered in detail. I guess worst case scenario there’s always slab climbing hahaha Reply reply More repliesMore replies A little over six weeks ago I was climbing at my local gym and experienced an excruciatingly sharp pain fast forward to today and I am pretty sure it's an intercostal muscle strain or possibly a tear. Sure, we each have our favorite styles but generally climb within a grade on most styles. In countries where large magnitude earthquakes are frequent, conventional flat Looking for some tips on how to feel safer when climbing on slab. You have much higher injury risk. My biggest concern is to avoid overuse injury, as my forearms muscles/tendons are currently sore for a good 4 days after a session. Quick intro: I am 44 years old based, in Brazil, been climbing for more than half of my life. I’ve typically going with neutral shoes (although I did have a pair of Evolv Kronos. I'm fairly certain I strained my pulleys. You’re engaging different muscles and using different techniques which ultimately can put off a climber who finds overhang climbing fun. Difference between a contraction joint, isolation joint, expansion joint, construction joint, and a cold joint Q. Someone else cited it in this thread somewhere. ulvkzexwkxlsiyymxqcryvmrbdtrbgoahyhjjlxgdidss