Reddit bouldering finger strength. South of the village of Bilogorivka, Luhansk region.

Reddit bouldering finger strength. TL;DR so what is the most effective and rapid way to build literally just finger tendon strength (non-forearm related)? Does anyone think this a worthwhile pursuit in improving climbing performance? Thanks for any and all input. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. Reddit is a network of communities where people can dive into their interests, hobbies and passions. I’m 180cm, 77kg 7a lead outdoor. At the end of the day, you've got to realise that climbing is still largely a skill sport and finger strength is not a be-all end-all, and if you don't put enough time and effort into working hard problems then your max hang numbers count for fuck Hi, So I’ve been climbing pretty regularly for about 2 years now. South of the village of Bilogorivka, Luhansk region. I climb in France and French bouldering gyms don't have grades. I've recently been working on improving my Finger Strength Analyzer tool. Your fingers are the means by which you directly engage the rock, and finger strength is usually the weakest link in your chain of physical abilities. Climbing is probably the best way for you to improve climbing strength unless you are pushing double digits. Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. 28 votes, 75 comments. While a few weeks is not long enough to guage it's usefulness personally, I've noticed some more confidence in grip strength. Then my problem is, I cannot sustain at 4kg everyweek I'm starting bouldering in the local climbing hangar next week and hoping this will help in both relative bodyweight strength and finger strength, Cheers Peeps, I did a short cycle this year with recruitment pulls as outlined by Tyler, FWIW I hit my personal best on finger strength after this cycle after a pretty long layoff from consistent climbing and training (~18months). My gym (Movement SF) has limited bouldering and an adjustable Kilter Board, and I’m wondering how best to use the latter tool to improve my finger strength. So technique starts with finger strength right? The Soviet climbers claimed that heavy finger rolls produce measurable gains in forearm circumference (a sign of muscle hypertrophy), whereas strength gains from fingerboard or campus training are primarily the result of neurological adaptations. But doing this training safely requires understanding how to manage both climbing and new finger-training stress simultaneously—and they’ll need to change their habits to manage both climbing and training. The traditional method of building finger strength is deadhanging, and Apr 9, 2018 · Background Heard about finger rolls from several different sources. The resiliency of tendon structures in the fingers contribute a lot to grip strength. I get pooped out super quick. For crimps I worked on finger strength, for slopes should I practice palming basketballs? Muscles in the forearms contract the fingers, so "finger strength" is "forearm strength". Reply reply Anecdotally, I have a buddy who can three finger drag 6 mil all daybut he sucks at slopers because his shoulders are weak. Finger strength gains can come from any climbing that has moves or holds that are taxing on the fingers—like bouldering at your limit—but the extraneous movement won’t translate directly to finger strength. When combined with the fact that you really just want to maximise climbing time when you're a beginner for general strength and technique training, you're better off avoiding and just climbing instead until later in your training. Then think about which specific types of moves you can’t do, the specific moves that are preventing you from sending. I've always thought I was pretty much an all rounder for bouldering maybe a bit better at static than dynamic but nothing drastic. Nov 21, 2022 · Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing capacity, endurance, and strength-to-weight ratio. I already have some experience climbing on a board, mostly a friend’s spray wall set at 35° in the city where I lived in 2022, but the Kilter Board holds seem generally larger and obviously the angle can be adjusted, so I’m My gym (Movement SF) has limited bouldering and an adjustable Kilter Board, and I’m wondering how best to use the latter tool to improve my finger strength. Being highly deficient in one will eventually come back to bite you (although, to be fair, if you're going to be strong any any-- half crimp is likely the best to be strong at). I was just looking for recommendations for things that I can use while my mind is on something else. I’ve been climbing for about a month now, and I want do everything in my power to get better. This will give you a basic idea of how hard you should be able to boulder and how much time you should invest in strength training to progress. Your hand would explode. Their smaller hands are getting better leverage where I can only fit a half of my finger tip at most. I use both, but as for finger strength, all my gains have been from hang board sessions. I’ve found that my biggest weakness right now is my forearm strength. An hour a week for a couple months is only about 8 hours on the wall. 5kg (82. You can't grip with greater force than the structures themselves can withstand. Over the year and a half I've been climbing I've gone from my powerlifting weight of 180 to a much more mobile and athletic 170 while gaining tons of finger strength from "just climbing" and some low volume hangboard and moonboarding. Reddit's rock climbing training community. That being said, as a beginner you will have much more benefit from a 1 hour climbing session than a 1 hour hangboard session. What would you… Be the first to comment Nobody's responded to this post yet. Jan 5, 2022 · Tools Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer The Finger Strength Analyzer will allow you to see how strong your fingers are. which is +37. How do you train specifically for sloper holds? I'm climbing in the 11a range but when it comes to big slopes I can't do much. I recently just started to be able to hang with a half crimp on a 20mm edge, but I don't think this routine is responsible for my finger strength gains, but it has allowed me to feel better on my climbing days to pull harder. So I analyzed the input data sets that lead to errors, and based on the Climb outside a lot and you're guaranteed to improve almost all aspects of your climbing, even pure finger strength (depending on what type of climbing you're doing). In terms of finger strength, id like to note that ive been climbing around 3-4 times a week for the past year with no supplemental training. Discuss it all here. : r/bodyweightfitness     Go to bodyweightfitness r/bodyweightfitness r/bodyweightfitness Omar is another guy who probably has 8C boulder strength but only climbs around 8A+ish. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. I got a grip exerciser off amazon for like 15$ and used it nightly for a month and saw noticeable improvement. I remember having a finger ultrasound a few years ago where the sports med doc said I have the trademark thickening of the flexor tendons often found in climbers. Doing supplemental exercises won’t be AS effective for training as will simply bouldering more. V5 bouldering My finger max is 10 kg add in 7 seconds. That being said, the closest thing would be the infamous Magnus 9c test (lots of videos on youtube), that predicts your 'theoretical grade' with 4 strength tests (finger strength, pull ups, endurance and core strength). You need rest days to get stronger. I just have a hard time learning from other better climbers because no one else is built like me at all. Omar is another guy who probably has 8C boulder strength but only climbs around 8A+ish. Jan 19, 2024 · Looking for how to approach strength training for bouldering? Maybe you've hit a plateau? Well, you’ve come to the right place. Just chill out and don’t worry about finger strength. 5 pounds) with a body weight of 67kg (147. The takeaway from my research is that everyone says finger strength is the #1 most important factor in your climbing ability so clearly this is something that's been majorly holding me back. The most official Reddit community of all official Reddit communities. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. In experimenting with various types of finger training over the years (weighted hangboarding, repeaters, block pulls), I have come across concentric finger curls, and overcoming isometric pulls as a method to gain (potentially) more finger strength. This statement seems reasonable since the heavy finger rolls cause repeated, high-intensity eccentric and concentric contractions of the forearm I think the idea is that if your forearms / finger strength is failing while bouldering, that means that bouldering is more than enough to gain strength in those regions. The place for news articles about current events in the United States and the rest of the world. This made me look more closely at my pinky, which I've considered short, and previously I’m a newbie climber. Plus your tendons will get conditioned by regular climbing which will help with finger strength training. I have follow the max hang protocol that now can do 4kg (90% max) for 10 sec 6 rep. Since bouldering is quite expensive, I can only afford to the climbing gym /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. However, some users suggest incorporating additional exercises or routines to complement the climbing experience and achieve a more complete workout. Grip strength is specific to the hand position. Hangboarding is both pretty similar and pretty different from lifting weights. I added in the wrist curl as condition training also. Both climbing outdoors more and climbing harder grades in the gym will require open hand positions-- actually, all hand positions-- more frequently. Climbing skill pretty much comes down to finger strength, bodyweight, technique, and endurance- so you need to work on all of them to get better. Are finger rolls actually training finger tendon strength or just grip strength? I’m not an expert and I’m not trying to be a dick but that exercise looks more like it trains forearm strength than it would finger strength for climbing specific movement (holding onto smaller edges for longer). I've been bouldering for 3 months and have come to the very newbie-level conclusion that my hand and finger strength are hugely limiting factors for me, as I have noticed a huge difference in the boulder problems at my gym when going from V3/4 to V4/5. My weight is probably the biggest issue, I am 210 lbs @ 5’9 but a lot of it is muscle (powerlifting background). here) I find this quite surprising because for me, my index fingers are significantly stronger than either middle or ring Reddit's rock climbing training community. These may include functional strength training, antagonist training, and exercises targeting the I recently started finger rolls as a rehab exercise and specifically started more isolated forearm exercises like wrist curls in order to address some weakness in open hand strength on slopers and compression climbing. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. r/Boxing: Welcome to /r/boxing, reddit's home for pro boxing enthusiasts! Please check out our rules and FAQs before posting… r/AskReddit is the place to ask and answer thought-provoking questions. But I checked this data with Nov 9, 2022 · Methods of Training Finger Strength There are essentially 4 different methods in which you can train your finger strength: Climbing: Bouldering or climbing on a board Campusing: Either on a campus board or boulder wall Fingerboarding: Isometric hangs Lifting: Taken from grip strength sports However each method comes with its own level of precision in training, in other words how easy it is to Reddit's rock climbing training community. Unfortunately, the only advice I’ve found is that to build this, you have to continue climbing. The tool's initial version was based solely on the results of the maxtograde survey, but the accuracy was not satisfactory. Apr 7, 2024 · Introduction to Arm-Lifting finger strength training Finger strength training is essential if you want to improve your climbing. The main way of holding on in rock climbing in crimping which is less about finger strength and more about grip technique. I've been indoor bouldering for about 2 months and want to start developing my finger strength. It has been shown to reduce injury risk by exposing the fingers to supramaximal loads in a controlled environment and to improve performance by allowing you to climb harder and more frequently 1. I have a conventional pull-up bar and was wondering whether doing finger hangs is an effective way to develop finger strength (rather than using a hangboard)? Thanks! How much time does a mild finger tendon injury need to heal while “at rest”? Can low-grade climbing help encourage my finger to heal faster? What back or pull exercises can I do instead of pull-ups/toes-to-bar to continue strength training for climbing? Can finger rolls be beneficial with a hurt finger or do I risk injuring further? (first post on Reddit ever so be kind :D) I notice a lot of climbers default to their middle finger for mono pockets, and even read some forums wherein the general consensus seemed to be that the middle finger is the strongest, followed by ring finger, then index???!! (eg. Mar 10, 2023 · This is typically when most climbers realize they need to do some specific finger training. Physiologically, my fingers seem to have adapted to the climbing specific stresses. I already have some experience climbing on a board, mostly a friend’s spray wall set at 35° in the city where I lived in 2022, but the Kilter Board holds seem generally larger and obviously the angle can be adjusted, so I’m Hand grippers do not build tendon strength or neurological at all. One, Two, Three. I said I’d try them out because I like to see if certain things work for me or not like my iontophoresis and antihydral experiments for dry fingers. Occasional frivolity. Mar 26, 2025 · Finger strength gains can come from any climbing that has moves or holds that are taxing on the fingers—like bouldering at your limit—but the extraneous movement won’t translate directly to finger strength. You're probably better off using a rubber band or other device to work your finger extensors at work as consistent antagonist training. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Also the finger strength you do develop (because there is some) is very different than guitar muscles. So I've been climbing for about 1 year, 9 months and recently have tried lattice finger strength testing on their 20mm fingerboard to find my 1RM. I have a good back and pulling strength but lack of grip strength is holding me back. Thanks for this, inspired me to swap from barbell finger rolls to tension block finger curls on a lat pull down machine. And right now you're a beginner at all of them, so it makes sense to "just climb" where you can work all of those facets. Because sloper strength is so complex- compared to crimp strength at least- I personally just like climbing a lot of sloper climbs to improve. Not for finger strength but I find these kind of squeeze exercise things quite good for rehabbing on off days. If using any sort of assistance placed to the side and gripped with the non-hanging arm (pulley, band, cord), then the rotational component is mostly eliminated. There's a community for whatever you're interested in on Reddit. When I started I could do v2 and muscle through some v3s Now my technique is vastly improved but I’m still climbing v3s and can barley do some v4s. No hangboarding or campus boarding. A hang board allows for a well structured workout, practical climbing grips, and allow for more weight. Redditors generally agree that bouldering can be a great workout for overall strength, particularly targeting the back, shoulders, and core muscles. I have a conventional pull-up bar and was wondering whether doing finger hangs is an effective way to develop finger strength (rather than using a hangboard)? Thanks! Aug 8, 2023 · Learn how to use the Tindeq Progressor to perform the perfect finger flexor Critical Force measurements and optimize your endurance training! Never been bouldering outside, climbed toprope outside 5 or 6 times maybe, and lead outside twice. (And a lovely pastime) Grip strength for climbing is isometric so using the squeezy grip rod things has virtually no translation to crimpin' the proj. Welcome to /r/singapore: The place for anything Singapore. If you think about the last few times you fell What is the best path to stronger finger tendons? I think I want fat, burly crimping fingers with gnarly power knuckles. The blurb Question: What finger/grip strength training items do you use? I am a student and a lifeguard, so I have lots of time that I can do training exercises for my fingers while working or during lectures. To me that implies that one-arm hangs are actually better for isolating finger strength, at least on the fairly large edges used for testing (~18–20mm). I recently listen to a podcast with Dan Varian, a mentor of Aidan Roberts and co-founder of Beastmaker, talking about the outcome of different types of grips on the strength of the individual fingers in relation to their position (flexed in dip or open) and how this is often reflected in climbing styles. How to know when finger strength is holding us back? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options came_to_post_this • The only answer is time and consistency, introduce finger boards when there’s no climbs available that are challenging your fingers strength, or you’re adding weight to max hangs (after minimum a year of solid climbing) You theoretically can finger board now and probably avoid injury, but the reward for risk is not worth it. Hangboarding targets this important element of climbing. Today's top content from hundreds of thousands of Reddit communities. But aside from finger strength, if you’re ever wondering what you should be training, try climbing boulders or routes above your level. Improving finger strength is definitely the end-game for climbing harder, and if you're going to start down that path, really commit to it. The top trending content from some of Reddit's most popular communities. In climbing, however, you need excess strength primarily in your forearms, as hand strength is often the weakest link. I generally climb v5, 11b-11c outside and I can only pull 40-45lbs for 10 reps and it feels like it's working my climbing muscles a lot harder than doing deadlifts with the tension block with 90-100lbs. Add your thoughts and get the conversation going. It'll take time, but your finger strength will build as you spend more time on the wall. As this is 100% right i have focused on improving technique in the past year and made a lot of gains there but here comes the question. Reddit is a network of communities where people can dive into their interests, hobbies and passions. There is *some* overlap between grip training and finger training (climbing-specific) but, if you're looking to improve your ability to pull down on small holds, spring loaded grip training tools are likely a waste of your time/capacity to recover. Here’s a video about how they are done. Been climbing lead 1-2 times a week for the past year alongside my usual indoor bouldering. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip In fact, I would argue that it's safer than climbing on crimpy and fingery holds. Recently got into rock climbing. The basic idea is that a climber's bouldering level is correlated with their finger strength relative to their body weight. At the end of the day, you've got to realise that climbing is still largely a skill sport and finger strength is not a be-all end-all, and if you don't put enough time and effort into working hard problems then your max hang numbers count for fuck Reddit's rock climbing training community. Your go-to place for Reddit updates, announcements, and news. When I started climbing, I was frustrated by the same experience. Honestly maybe I should be happy to climb as hard as I do considering my finger strength supposedly corresponds to less than V0. r/climbharder climb harder - ideas and structured training to get better at climbing Reddit's rock climbing training community. Finger curls ??? I need to work on finger strength more and i was going to try out going to do finger curls at is it an effective method to build finger strength? /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Built a little routine to train it, want some critique. If you are moderately new to climbing and your finger-, pull- and body strengths are equally good or bad. If you get those little kits with the 5 different kind of instruments they do a good job of lightly working out all those lower arm/hand parts Reply reply Basicallydirt • In the climbing community better climbers are talking to newbie climbers to focus on technique first and then on finger strength. For crimps I worked on finger strength, for slopes should I practice palming basketballs? Finger strength is only one of many components that contribute to your overall climbing ability, but for intermediate to advanced climbers it is also one the most important things you can train. At one point last year, I had 3 finger injuries at once. In the beginning, finger strength will come just from climbing, along with the added benefit of technique. 7 pounds) with two arms. Hi all, I would like to ask about finger strength training which is my weakness and I really want to improve. I typically use a hang gripper for thumb strength (pinches) and for warm up. Yes, more finger strength would be better, but climbing three times a week is more than enough stimulus (if you were weight training, it’s very unlikely you would work the same muscle groups more than that). La France, les Français et même les francophones Feb 24, 2022 · All kinds of russian BMPs burning to the ground from grenade drops. If you want to train to last longer then continue to push your endurance by climbing longer routes or do 4x4s. Sometimes I feel like they compliment each other, the finger flexibility I get from guitar helps with climbing and the finger strength I get from climbing can help with guitar but climbing can definitely wear the skin of your fingers or even rip big chunks of skin off your fingers sometimes especially when you’re new or if ur . The blurb Apr 9, 2018 · Background Heard about finger rolls from several different sources. These are relatively small, light muscles. fjsvg vjaxtq gde kucpf ppu ixkte yfsvgq geves yjczn repz