What carabiner to use with a grigri. For a climber who is already familiar with using classic devices, it takes a little time to adjust. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The efficiencies were just about the same with each one. 4. Seriously, there's no need to overthink this. Jun 26, 2021 · The grigri tether works for all models of grigri, but ever so slightly differently for each, but your materials will be the same. Mar 23, 2024 · The GriGri is the popular assisted breaking devices, but is often used incorrectly. Thread the rope throught the Grigri so the rope connected to the anchor exits on "To climber" side of Grigri. ” TWIST-LOCK auto-locking helps reduce the risk of forgetting to lock the carabiner, while maintaining a good speed of use. Checklist included! Belaying with the GRIGRI The belay technique to be used is very similar to the generic belay technique, but has a few specifics. Aug 13, 2024 · The Edelrid Pinch is a much-anticipated assisted braking belay device. If your partner can't follow the pitch, you can help Sm’D is a lightweight, compact, D-shaped locking carabiner. When using this carabiner with a Grigri, Black Diamond recommends that you clip the wide part of the carabiner to your harness, and the narrow end to the belay device: opposite the normal way you would use a carabiner. Jun 10, 2019 · DMM makes some of the highest-quality and best climbing hardware—period. Compared with pear- shaped models of the same diameter, D-shaped carabiners are stronger as the load is transferred along the major axis of the carabiner. DMM Ceros Locking Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with an ATC. One very nice aspect to using a GriGri as your top-of-the-crag belay device, is that it can easily be converted to a hauling system. Feb 15, 2018 · Grivel’s twin-gate carabiners create safer, faster and stronger biners and have been on the market for a few years. Trad/Alpine Climber: Most likely all your non-locking carabiners, including your alpine draws and racking carabiners, will be offset D’s to keep weight down. The Petzl GriGri is an assisted-braking belay device. It can be used in this case, because the rope does not run through the carabiner (which could rub against the locking sleeve). The GriGri is simple too, but I personally just like to use the equipment for what it was made for. You will learn how to: use the … Top Rope Belay Course Read More » Abundant features for a better belay. Dec 13, 2023 · Most guides carry both the GriGri and the ATC, but in a pinch, they may rely on one device over the other. Make sure the end of the rappel rope is touching the ground and a stopper knot is Designed for lead and top rope climbing, GRIGRI is the gold standard for belay devices. Follow these step by step instructions on how to belay with a GriGri, including giving slack quickly. The Petzl Freino Carabiner is ideal for adding or adjusting friction during the descent. How to Use a GriGri In practice, belaying with a GriGri is similar to belaying with a nonassisted braking or tube Rappelling with GRIGRI and NEOX Multi-pitch rappelling with a single rope Belaying multi-pitch routes on single rope with a Using the GRIGRI/GRIGRI + with a low stretch Belay technique: taking up slack Choice of carabiner for attaching a GRIGRI or I don’t use those when climbing outside, while it is sufficient for a belay device it’s “could” open. So long as the carabiner is being loaded along the spine, it's a matter of preference whether you use the wide or narrow end to belay from. When closed, the twin gate Carabiner shape and use D-shaped D-shaped carabiners can be used for clipping in (at the end of sling) or for belaying (only with a Grigri). Mar 29, 2019 · If you have a Grigri or similar auto locking belay device, you can still get down a route. I've never had my grigri get stuck as shown in the video, and I'm not really sure how that would happen organically (at least for me - I'm pretty sure that any time I have slack in my system, I have a hand on the grigri, so it wouldn't get wedged in like that). The large number of manipulations during the day increases the risk of error. especially for lead climbing I like it a lot more than the grigri. Mar 17, 2022 · The Petzl GriGri still requires the brake hand to remain on the brake strand. For a GriGri I'd use the cheapest D-shaped locking carabiner I have. Aug 15, 2019 · The DMM Rhino is our favorite carabiner to belay with, especially when belaying with an active assisted braking device such as a Petzl GriGri or Trango Sep 15, 2020 · A dedicated belay biner can make a world of difference. Make sure that there is nothing nearby that the grigri could jam against that would stop it from properly braking. In these situations if the grigri cannot be repositioned it is better to use a redirected belay from the harness. The technique described here is the only one that Petzl Mar 13, 2024 · Amazon. Reinforced for intensive use, it can be used with single ropes from 8. You made an excellent choice! Dec 30, 2019 · If you're using a Grigri or similar device on a top rope belay, and you have a heavy partner, small diameter, and/or wet/icy rope, sometimes you need additional friction. Apr 14, 2025 · I have been using a Grigri as a belay device when leading solo, with backup knots to a separate beefy locking carabiner. The GRIGRI is a belay device with assisted braking. 5 Nov 8, 2023 · When you’re not glacier climbing, it works perfectly with a Grigri, as the little “horn” prevents the carabiner from being cross loaded The standard recommendation for clipping to the rope for glacier travel is to have two opposite and opposed carabiners, at least one of them locking. Reply reply more repliesMore replies Qwackerzz •. « Asymmetric D-Shaped locking carabiner: The Sm’D is an almost perfect hybrid between a pear-shaped carabiner and a d-shaped carabiner. Since the inception of the original Grigri 1, the Grigri has continued to set the standard for belay devices with cam-assisted blocking (braking). Here are a few more specialized carabiners that can work well with a Grigri. Is this really true? Let's take a closer look at why bringing a Grigri might be a smart move for alpine climbers. With the Clepsydra, you only need one. 2 - Clip an ascender to the rope above the Grigri. Although Kochendörfer prefers an ATC or an alternative device to the GriGri, he admits that there are some situations in which the GriGri excels: “The only occasion where we use GriGri-like devices is for tree rescue and lift rescue. I have been looking into rope soloing on lead with a grigri 2, and have heard some horror stories about carabiners breaking and the device failing to lock. Pear-shaped (or HMS) carabiner HMS carabiners, can be used for belaying (with all kinds of belay Apr 5, 2024 · Locking the GriGri at the top The other surprise if you don't use this trick is that when you do go above the top of the mast you are unloading the GriGri. Designed for lead and top rope climbing, GRIGRI is the gold standard for belay devices. Is an ATC better than a Grigri? We break down the differences between the types of belay devices and share our favorites for different types of climbing. The gridlock is a neat system, but I like its a bit overkill for use with a tube style belay device. The smart is my favourite belay device. Are there any ways around this, besides for the obvious solution of backup knots, like attaching the grigri to your belay loop with a sling, or some other way of using it? The Petzl Freino carabiner is single-locking and designed with a friction spur for descenders. 2mm on down) ropes Less likely to kink a stiff rope than a Grigri thanks to V-groove rope channel that keeps rope in a straight line The Black Diamond Gridlock Screwgate carabiner eliminates any worries of having your belay carabiner and device not being properly oriented. That is very surprising and unsettling to say the least. Make sure the carabiner is locked and the GriGri’s orientation is correct (lever on the left, plate on the right). In normal climbing applications carabiners just aren’t subjected to enough repeated loads. For the original tutorial I made 5, I used some thick 4mm cord, made a big hole in my grigri, and attached it to a normal BD Rocklock with a figure eight on a bight. It’s the ideal belay device for top rope climbing with a specific mode that makes it easier to take up slack. Ensure the rappel rope is connected safely to your anchor. With an anti-panic handle that makes it particularly suited for learning, the GRIGRI + is a cam-assisted blocking device for top rope or lead climbing in the gym or outside. Jul 17, 2022 · Black Diamond GridLock super popular Belay Carabiner paired with Petzl GriGri raises a lot of questions and arguments amongst Climbers. May 20, 2020 · The best carabiner for the Grigri can prevent dangerous situations when belaying and rappelling. Unsurprisingly, Petzl says not to use an HMS The Sm'd is small, doesn't do dumb, and has a tiny hole if you'd like to tether your Grigri to the carabiner. But, if it makes you feel better using a specialized carabiner, go ahead. Talk about Mar 17, 2014 · The GRIGRI is a belay device with assisted braking. Jun 5, 2025 · Put the carabiner through the grigri and screw the gate closed. Carabiner Safety The main reason to use a special carabiner for your belay device is to avoid cross-loading. One of Grivel’s best twin-gate biners for belaying is the Plume, but the wires are too wide to fit into a GriGri. Crossloading basically went away when I stopped using an HMS carabiner with a Grigri. I prefer all my locking carabiners to be multi use, meaning I can use them on any belay device, building an anchor, when rappelling. For an ATC or any similar device I'll use either a BD RockLock or (more often) two regular BD Ovals opposite and opposed. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. It's perfect for single pitch cragging and gym climbing. A GRIGRI is a great choice for belaying a lead climber, but the technique is slightly more complicated than belaying with a more traditional tubular-style device like an ATC. Jun 24, 2025 · For beginners eyeing lead climbing, the Petzl Grigri offers unmatched safety and ease, making it a go-to assisted-braking belay device. All belay devices are not created equal, so you need to learn the intricacies of the device or devices that you use before Jul 5, 2011 · A lot of climbers get really wrapped up in using a GriGri on the ground, either for top-roping or for belaying a leader. Other information is provided to guide climbers choose the best locking carabiner for Grigri. Read our review to see why it's our climbing editor's first choice. Use one of these techniques, and have the Grigri Jan 8, 2019 · However, a second locking carabiner clipped to a higher anchor piece could also be used for less money, and in general we prefer to use an auto-locking ATC such as the Petzl Reverso or ATC Guide to belay up a seconding climber, as they are more secure for this use (and a lot lighter and less clunky to carry up) than a GriGri. Although that seems to work well, I am always happy to hear some thoughts on solo belay systems. Apr 16, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Feb 7, 2019 · 1 - Feed the rope through your Grigri, and attach the Grigri to your belay loop with a large locking carabiner, just like you would for belaying. Before reading on, check out the Evening Sends Guide to Choosing a Belay Device. I began using my gri gri 2 with a Black Diamond Rock Lock HMS carabiner because it was the same one that I used with my ATC. Note: If your gym is pre-rigged with GriGri’s, an offset D locking carabiner is a fine option. Make sure you're using it right with these simple steps. These recommendations are based on our actual usage experience with the carabiners along with the Grigri. With this carabiner just a click and safety is guaranteed one hundred percent. There is only one device to attach, so a wide opening and high capacity are not necessary. This has been done for years using various different methods and modifications. (Note that the ascender is usually for your non-dominant hand; ie, right handed climbers bideally should use a left handed acender. When using it, there is no need to recheck it during the course of the activity. This type of carabiner is designed to minimize snagging and provide smooth rope handling when belaying with Oct 4, 2024 · Even people who have safely used the GriGri since last century have occasionally gone into “GriGri Lock”, grabbing the cam open in a surprise fall. A climber can only rappel using a single strand by blocking at the rappel ring using a knot that will be attached to a locking carabiner. Designed to be used with the Petzl Grigri (but just as effective with any belay device), the Freino belay carabiner is a 3 ounce autolocking unit that has a secondary gate and basket - yes, you may call it a spur to establish techno-superiority - that provides additional braking. Knowing some of these techniques can be great for descending multi pitch routes where your partner has a standard tube device and you have a Grigri. Oct 25, 2023 · Some people have noted for example that the Edelrid Bulletproof carabiner can impair the locking feature of the Giga Jul, and that the GriGri is susceptible to crossloading using HMS carabiners. Mar 16, 2025 · The best carabiner for use with a Grigri is a pear-shaped carabiner with a keylock nose. 6. The GriGri with all of its magic does not replace a proper rappelling device. Jan 7, 2019 · This item: PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, and Top-Rope Climbing May 7, 2025 · We put 15 locking carabiners from Petzl, CAMP, Black Diamond, DMM and others to the test to find you the absolute best. And the DMM Ceros gets my vote for the best locking carabiner to use with a GriGri. This only happens with my grigri, I haven't had problems with my atc albeit with a different locking carabiner (Camp HMS compact lock). Jun 18, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Oct 12, 2023 · However, we’ve seen many folks use them for their chalk bag. Easy to handle: - Facilitates the creation of a tie-off - Keylock system helps prevent the carabiner from snagging during use - TWIST-LOCK automatic locking system, for quick opening Compatible with the HUIT, HUIT ANTIBRULURE, STOP (D09) and SIMPLE (D04) descenders and the NEOX, GRIGRI + and GRIGRI assisted blocking devices TWIST-LOCK auto-locking helps reduce the risk of forgetting to lock the carabiner, while maintaining a good speed of use. This device can connect directly to the harness (or anchor for a top down belay) without a carabiner passing through the two closed loop. The technique described here is the only one that Petzl recommends. Jul 19, 2019 · I've been having problems where I accidentally crossload my locking carabiner (Petzl Attache) while belaying someone on lead. Top Rope Belay Course About Cost Dress Code About Learning how to belay is the first step at becoming self-sufficient in the sport. I use it sometimes with a normal screw karabiner and sometimes with a special screw karabiner that prevents crossloading it’s both very convenient to use. In the gym or at the crag, it makes belaying easier with cam-assisted blocking. Metolius Steel Auto Lock Carabiner: The Best for Top Rope Anchor Masterpoints. Here are our in-depth reviews. What carabiner will stop this? Sorry, this post was deleted by the person who originally posted it. Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. I use a grigri (sometimes) and a gridlock, so this caught my eye. I keep those around for rapelling only. I always click the carabiners as double check after attaching them regardless of the locking type. TWIST-LOCK auto-locking helps reduce the risk of forgetting to lock the carabiner, while maintaining a good speed of use. Feb 2, 2022 · In reply to John Workman: If you have been using it wrong, make sure you check for any sharp marking on the inside of the end you're about to start using at the belay loop end. When the rope is taut, the carabiner and the device are held in position by the tension. Petzl Djinn Bent Gate Non-Locking Carabiner: The Best for Sport Climbing Quickdraws. Petzl’s “new” GriGri technique (look up “belaying with a GriGri” on their website) is a big step forward as the hand that is holding the cam open is also holding the rope. It is available in three locking system versions. Wahl des Karabiners zum Verbinden eines GRIGRI oder NEOX mit dem Gurt Warnhinweis Lesen Sie die Gebrauchsanweisungen der Produkte, um die es in diesem Tech Tipp geht, aufmerksam durch, bevor Sie diesen zu Rate ziehen. This step-by-step guide demystifies how to use a Grigri for lead climbing, covering setup, belaying skills, and safety essentials. When closed, the twin gate Jul 25, 2023 · An Overview of the Petzl Grigri The Grigri is an assisted braking belay device designed for climbing inside or outdoors. In order to pay out slack, you need to override the cam while still holding onto the brake strand. Instead, be resourceful with the gear you probably already have. What is the Best Carabiner to use with a GRIGRI? This chart shows a few of the best options and the reasons behind the choices. Jun 21, 2023 · Petzl Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with a Grigri. Mar 1, 2023 · This article lists five of the top carabiner for Grigri that anyone can use today. I'm not sure I'd call it a PSA, though. Sep 25, 2018 · Basically, it’s a perfect match for your PAS (personal anchor system). 5. If you need to rappel with a GriGri, it is great in a pinch or if a GriGri is just what you happen to have and you don’t normally rappel. So it requires a little time to adapt to. It is easy to handle and is perfectly suitable for connecting to a GRIGRI or GRIGRI + belay system. Here’s an easy way to do that - redirect the brake strand through a second carabiner. It’s essentially a d-shaped locker with a bigger basket. Jun 23, 2020 · Clepsydra L ANGELIKA RAINER (Italia) I always use it to belay with the Grigri at the crag. If you read the manual you will get even more confused. Attach a second locking carabiner to the anchor in a position above the grigri. Press the carabiner open and clip it through the attachment holes on both of your grigri’s side plates. I use one with my grigri, because that tends to cross load the carabiner more, but its a bit more hassle to take on and off your harness, which you will be doing a lot with a tube device. IME putting the wide end through the belay loop makes the carabiner marginally more resistant to going cock-eyed and crossloading. My partner and I both noticed that the carabiner would cross load on occasion when the screw gate became caught on the belay loop. Jan 3, 2024 · Attach the GriGri to your harness’s belay loop using a locking carabiner. I this a problem with my technique or is there something about grigri's and/or Petzl Attache's that make them more likely to cross Oct 16, 2020 · Many climbers love their Grigri for sport climbing, but think that it's 1) too heavy and 2) single purpose to bring for a long alpine route. Use a strong locking carabiner to connect the Grigri to your climbing harness belay loop. Dave Fasulo (Author of the Falcon Self Rescue book) recommends using a grigri for this reason. Aug 16, 2022 · The acronym comes from the Grigri being Held Upside-down and Backwards from how it is normally attached to the belay loop for belaying a lead climber. But a GriGri can also be used effectively at the top of a crag, for belaying a second. Feb 29, 2024 · Note: The example pictured above is a little misleading in that, when using the Gridlock with a GriGri (specifically this combo), it’s best to use the carabiner upside down, so the GriGri is attached to the belay keeper area. com : PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device with Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, & Top-Rope Climbing - Blue : Sports & OutdoorsBuy a lot of stuff on Amazon? Tons of items eligible for coverage, from the latest tech like Laptops, Game Consoles, TVs, Phones, and Cameras to major appliances, sporting goods, tools, toys, personal care, furniture, and TWIST-LOCK auto-locking helps reduce the risk of forgetting to lock the carabiner, while maintaining a good speed of use. Whether you’re transitioning from top-rope or starting fresh, you’ll gain They planned on single strand rappels using the grigri? Usually on a big wall you'd have a reverso or some other tube device for the rap/backup belay device to the grigri. Read our four top picks for the best belay carabiner and treat your partner to a deluxe belay! A guide to climbing carabiners: Find out more about types of carabiners, closure systems, load type & how to use them. Having trouble with my gri gri crossloading. May 24, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. All you need is a friction hitch, long sling, and a modern belay device like a Grigri or “guide-mode” style belay device. I tested this with both a 10 pound load and a 100 pound load. Make sure that the rope is correctly oriented in the grigri. Screw the cylindrical piece all the way into place over the carabiner’s gate to secure it in place, so it won’t come unhooked while you belay a climber. I like to use grigri for toprope belaying and Jul2 for leading and I would feel super safe with my belayer using either to a point where I now hate even the idea of anyone using ATC/Reverso and the like for belaying me. But, you need a few alternative techniques, because your device only works on a single strand of rope. I think I remember seeing the Euros doing it decades ago before I saw it here in the US. Reply reply zonman831 • Dec 15, 2021 · Attach the grigri to the anchor’s master point with a locking carabiner. Feb 3, 2019 · Surprisingly, using an ATC guide or similar device, or a Grigri as a progress capture introduces no significant amount of friction into the system, at least according to my limited testing. [3] The section of rope coming out of the top of your grigri is the Oct 22, 2020 · The Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner is designed to minimize cross loading. Its safety is its best feature. Oh, by the way, it’s pretty ideal for your GriGri too. Pretty much any locking biner works for a grigri because of the low profile attachment point. We also check out the n Jan 22, 2025 · No need to carry a belay locker in your pack Orientation is “built in”—device stays reliably upright on your belay loop Belay action is close to the body and ergonomic, with no locking carabiner in the way Feeds silky-smooth with skinnier (~9. There are lots of devices you can use, and they vary greatly in terms of weight, cost, and most importantly, friction. It’s basically used like a normal tuber but with extra security. When rappelling or lowering on single ropes using a GriGri, the Freino provides increased friction without extra gear or the need to open the carabiner. Check out our 8 top picks and some helpful tips The GRIGRI and NEOX must be detached and re-attached each time the rope is installed, on every pitch of the climb. 3. You’ll need something to drill the hole, a carabiner you’re going to be attaching to and some cord. Most dissatisfying thing about magnetron is the inaudible response of the gate when I try to click it. You might not have any, but sometimes the GriGri can score the inside of the carabiner. Here are our in-depth reviews! OK, alpha-gear-geeks, your carabiner has arrived. The deal is that the GriGri only locks when it is loaded so when you sit back down, you fall for a bit before your load locks it. May 4, 2021 · To be clear, I’m not saying it's dangerous or incorrect to use an HMS carabiner with a Grigri. FRANCOIS CAZZANELLI (Italia) It is my inseparable climbing partner at the crag. Using a grigri as your belay device greatly simplifies a number of self-rescue scenarios. However, a “D” carabiner might give you slightly better performance, and be more in line with Petzl’s guidelines. Apr 6, 2023 · Do you need to do some improvised rope ascending? You don't need a designated waist and foot prusik cord. Mar 2, 2023 · On the other hand, a GriGri can’t rappel on two strands coming out of the anchor. Jul 12, 2025 · How to Rappel with a Petzl GriGri Ensure you have your helmet and harness on correctly, and your personal safety is girth hitched through both hard points of your harness. Connect your personal safety to your anchor and ensure all carabiners are locked. I personally use the BD gridlock and would recommend any HMS biner with a locking feature like the DMM belaymaster. On the decent my friend was using a GriGri and a grid lock for his rappel setup. Aug 31, 2021 · We field tested 12 of the best locking carabiners in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. PINCH Basic Functions | EDELRID A new Grigri like device from Edelrid with an interesting extra feature or two, but one in particular that makes me nervous. However if an aluminum carabiner was used for something else like a long time on a slackline, or a small lift/winch it could very easily develop microfractures. Using a GriGri also limits its adaptability as it only works on a specific size of ropes. This technique offers real advantages in terms of safety: - the rule to never let go of the On this Friday's gear show w'are having a look at how to use a Petzl GriGri 2, it's safety features, and what to avoid doing with it. Feb 3, 2019 · The progress capture / ratchet is a critical part of a hauling system. Midway through the rappel he weighted and unweighted the rope which we think must have accidentally put the carabiner in a cross loaded position. The belay technique is very close to the generic technique, but has a few specifics. But without clear guidance, it’s easy to fumble. zlysyy livcsvh uhcfg dvl mabeliz gonfkh zxbvecj agz ajllgcc nriaz