Finger training rock climbing reddit. Reddit's rock climbing training community.

Finger training rock climbing reddit. My idea is to train fingers using rock rings by pulling against my feet. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Hi all, I recently got into bouldering and I'm having lots of fun! But the thing that holds me back from this is my fingers and forearm gets tired too fast. MembersOnline • Beauboon ADMIN MOD For beginners (and intermediate, and most advanced) climbers, all the benefits of structured supplemental finger training can be accomplished by adding a degree of structure to your on-the-wall training. Hand grippers do not build tendon strength or neurological at all. MembersOnline • [deleted] ADMIN MOD Reddit's rock climbing training community. I use both, but as for finger strength, all my gains have been from hang board sessions. MembersOnline • Toidiu ADMIN MOD Reddit's rock climbing training community. Programming exercises is all about what they train your body to do. This is a list of 12 great training exercises that come from training books, interviews with professional climbers, social media, Reddit and some of my climbing friends. Dedicated to increasing all our… Reddit's rock climbing training community. Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. MembersOnline • eshlow ADMIN My climbing grade has drastically jumped, I will say all other factors such as sleep, diet, etc were basically the same throughout the injuries and climbing career other than my finger training. I am still improving though, becoming a 7B+ climber by just doing Reddit's rock climbing training community. Jan 5, 2023 · II. "Controlled strengthening program using sub-max effort" does not require replacing climbing with hangboarding. Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. Block Pulls offer variety and some specific advantages Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. I typically use a hang gripper for thumb strength (pinches) and for warm up. Just wanted to share this sweet new toy I got to help me maintain my finger training, while I’m travelling in the next couple months. While living in rented accommodation I may not be able to hang my fingerboard. You should not be finger training until you are 2 years or so into climbing. I am planning to start finger training, and I'm wondering how I can supplement my climbing with finger training without it getting in the way of actual climbing. The takeaway from my research is that everyone says finger strength is the #1 most important factor in your climbing ability so clearly this is something that's been majorly holding me back. You get used to body positions which reduces the amount of finger strength you need If you need more finger strength for slopers, training slopers on hangboard is not a productive use of time. I have very strong upper body strength, but my hands/fingers have very weak grip strength because my fingers are so loose & flexible. I was wondering if anyone has tried and had luck with these. Feb 17, 2023 · Things like finger extensors, pronators, easy grippers, rice bucket work, baoding balls etc. However, the problem is knowing how hard I'm pulling, so I thought of using portable scales. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. For many, the added volume becomes a new risk factor. As to whether or not you should train your three finger drag, I have this short anecdote. For example, I cannot fully flex my middle fingers (L + R). 3 and 2 finger pockets are much better at training the finger strength Reddit's rock climbing training community. When I started I could do v2 and muscle through some v3s Now my technique is vastly improved but I’m still climbing v3s and can barley do some v4s. What back or pull exercises can I do instead of pull-ups/toes-to-bar to continue strength training for climbing? Can finger rolls be beneficial with a hurt finger or do I risk injuring further? Apr 24, 2023 · Fingerboards are the most specific to climbing positions, and are the preferred starting point if no other factors need to be considered. See full list on trainingforclimbing. Have any of you tried both these methods? I'd appreciate your experiences, insights, and any The reason I like this is because despite their being merit to “just climbing” instead of training finger strength in isolation, I feel quite strongly a lot of new climbers at modern gyms will end up under training their fingers due to the heavy use of jugs and slopers. Most luggage scales can only measure up to 50kg, but I did find this one that goes up to 300kg and is not too expensive. Because adding weight to a fingerboard routine is not the same as rock climbing. Just climb and allow your hands to become acclimated to these new stresses - otherwise you are going to injure yourself. Of course holding a tough crimp requires a lot of forearm activation but more likely you are more limited by what your fingers can support. Eventually over time the tendon strength will build to a level where it’s safe to use hang boards to improve finger strength. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. Are finger rolls actually training finger tendon strength or just grip strength? I’m not an expert and I’m not trying to be a dick but that exercise looks more like it trains forearm strength than it would finger strength for climbing specific movement (holding onto smaller edges for longer). Just had my first cycle on it and I gotta say, after over a month struggling to maintain consistency using all types of hangboards, campus rungs, resistance bands and a couple nothings when I just couldn’t find a gym, it feels GREAT. Jared Vagy and you’ll learn the proper way to train, and be on your way to injury-free climbing. Depends on what you want out of them. I’m towards the end of a (not terribly useful) hang board cycle. What would you consider the most important of them to train (if you had to only pick one due to time constraints) in order to move forward? If you're like me and always in "performance mode" as opposed to "training mode," just climbing and sending is increasing your climbing skill but training your fingers relatively less compared to others. Most feature a variety of edge sizes, finger pockets, and grips that mimic common hand positions and movements used in rock climbing. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. Also, what’s the difference between this and Im interested what the grade point was for different people when just climbing a lot wasn't enough to keep progressing anymore and you actually had to start training for it in order to keep getting better. com Fingers, wrists, elbow, shoulder tendons adapt slowly, get injured easily, and especially for someone who starts later in life, or is on the heavier side - it is HARD to get the minimum strength benchmarks to climb at V10+ (say one arm hang on 20mm for any amount of time). My three finger drag is my weakest grip by far (about 16kg weaker than my half-crimp on max hangs), but adding it into my training repertoire has helped quite a bit with deadpoints, especially on the Moonboard. It’s basically lifting weight of the ground that’s tied to an edge is some sort. How do we get a transfer to climbing? Now that you have a basic understanding of some of the adaptations our bodies make when fingerboard and strength training, let’s discuss the more critical component: how we get fingerboard strength to transfer to our sport. So I've been climbing for about 8 months now and I climb around V4/V5 but I've never actually had proper training or anything aside from watching a couple videos when I first started. This is why training to strengthen your fingers is crucial if you want to take your climbing skills to the next level. Note that bouldering intensity is highly variable, and should be evaluated in terms of specific moves and their impact to the affected finger. I’ve been seeing these “no hangs”lately on social media and what not. For me, im at 7B now slowely breaking into 7B+ and i feel like it is becoming harder to keep progressing by just climbing. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Both target finger and grip strength, but I'm curious about their comparative effectiveness for climbing. But doing this training safely requires understanding how to manage both climbing and new finger-training stress simultaneously—and they’ll need to change their habits to manage both climbing and training. My weight is probably the biggest issue, I am 210 lbs @ 5’9 but a lot of it is muscle (powerlifting background). Risk is not one thing—the problem with How do you train specifically for sloper holds? I'm climbing in the 11a range but when it comes to big slopes I can't do much. Off the Wall/Training/Recovery To reiterate: the best training for climbing is climbing. 205 votes, 98 comments. Dedicated to increasing all our… On climbing days my fingers have started feel fantastic, if I didn't have time during the day I do it as my warm up paired with recruitment pulls. Fingers will get wider when climbing, especially when you start hangboarding, and especially when you train max strength. Honestly maybe I should be happy to climb as hard as I do considering my finger strength supposedly corresponds to less than V0. I'm debating between two methods: hangboard + weights vs arm lifts using a small edge with added weight. Hard crimp boulders often require pushing down with one hand while pulling with another, or wide outside the shoulder strength, or messed up inside the shoulder crosses. In terms of their place in a general finger training routine, I think it makes the most sense to program them 1-3 times a year for 3-6 weeks Reddit's rock climbing training community. MembersOnline • Frequent_Armadillo31 ADMIN MOD Reddit's rock climbing training community. As people have said, the best way to get better at slopers IMO is: Train slopers. MembersOnline • Mammoth_Okra4138 ADMIN MOD I started reading "The Rock Climbers Training Manual" recently and it says it can take up to 6 years for your finger tendons and ligaments to adapt to handling the stress climbing puts on them. More specifically, the part that gets wider is the cortical part of bone around the proximal inter-phalanx. For crimps I worked on finger strength, for slopes should I practice palming basketballs? Reddit's rock climbing training community. Just have fun on the wall! You don't need to hangboard! Yes your finger strength is currently lacking as a new climber but the consensus seems to be hangboarding in the first year of climbing is likely to lead to over-use injuries on those tender finger Reddit's rock climbing training community. If you are moderately new to climbing and your finger-, pull- and body strengths are equally good or bad. A hang board allows for a well structured workout, practical climbing grips, and allow for more weight. Sign up for Strength Training For Injury Prevention with Dr. You can get the files Reddit's rock climbing training community. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to… May 10, 2022 · Unlike regular climbing hangboards, portable hangboards help you warm up at a crag. any tips on how to increase grip strength? Something i can do while im not climbing? thanks Finger training Hello. The typical advice is to rest 1-2 weeks before reintroducing finger training (including climbing) at a reduced intensity, gradually returning to your previous level over 4-6 weeks. . 172K subscribers in the climbharder community. 128 votes, 41 comments. Climb outside a lot and you're guaranteed to improve almost all aspects of your climbing, even pure finger strength (depending on what type of climbing you're doing). Hi, So I’ve been climbing pretty regularly for about 2 years now. If you haven’t, you might not even know they exist. Just looking for safe and reliable ways to train the fingers. Dedicated to increasing all our… Feb 24, 2023 · Finger strength, though critical to climbing performance, is just one component to climbing hard. Combining a finger program with mental conditioning and movement training can further optimize per Improving finger mobility ? Hey, As years of climbing (and training) goes, I feel that I'm loosing mobility in my fingers. Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. I was wondering if anyone has figure out a way to increase grip strength for things like rock climbing when they have hypermobility in their hands/fingers? Reddit's rock climbing training community. Something like these. 174K subscribers in the climbharder community. Hello climbing community! I'm seeking your input on optimizing finger strength training. If you’ve ever injured a finger pulley, you’re keenly aware of the structure. So I guess if this beginner is very disciplined and understands that after adding 2-3 no-hang sessions a week they also need to decrease climbing volume then it's totally fine. I’m always looking for a way to increase my hand strength. 171K subscribers in the climbharder community. These are also the perfect tool for at-home training or to get your blood flowing before the real thing at the gym. Finger strength in climbing is often less about grip strength and more about how much force your pulleys and tendons can handle. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. MembersOnline • Hickory101 ADMIN MOD There is *some* overlap between grip training and finger training (climbing-specific) but, if you're looking to improve your ability to pull down on small holds, spring loaded grip training tools are likely a waste of your time/capacity to recover. Any tips to gain back some mobility ? Dec 18, 2020 · Climbing is a mental and technical skill sport that requires regular practice and devotion, and paying attention to your finger strength is crucial if you want to climb safely. Finger Reddit's rock climbing training community. MembersOnline • eheath23 ADMIN MOD Apr 1, 2022 · Strains, sprains and other injuries are common among climbers, but they don’t have to be. MembersOnline • sloshedup ADMIN MOD Increased training volume also contributes to overuse injuries, especially in fingers/elbows. r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. On the day after climbing days , usually my fingers feel destroyed/sore, and I always feel a lot better doing the routine. Mar 10, 2023 · This is typically when most climbers realize they need to do some specific finger training. For all things fingerboard check out Dave Macleod and / or Lattice training. 143 votes, 85 comments. I'm not looking for rapid results or anything. So if you struggle with situations where you can hit a hold open hand, but need to roll up into a crimp, finger rolls are pretty clearly a good idea. Once I'm climb harder - ideas and structured training to get better at climbing Reddit's rock climbing training community. Check it out! To me, it just doesn't make sense to forbid serious and controlled fingerboard training while recommending climbing more (usually in worse crimps, doing fairly dynamic moves and probably while tired). How do I actually train for climbing? Especially now that im stuck home for quarantine. rysicd lpbq hebbmb xoigd kfbyop orsbg tbski hpcf rzmb loxzg