Quad anchor knots. Each end of the doubled loops is secured to an anchor point, each point of which may themselves be composed of one or two components such as a cam or stopper. Then clip each two-stranded loop into your two smallest/weakest pieces. This simple setup meets SERENE, can change directionality, arms can be used to personally anchor into, can hold 2 tie-in points with Mar 24, 2025 · 1 - Quad anchor - keep the knots low With a quad anchor, if you’re using a cordelette or longer sewn sling like a 180 cm or 240 cm, it's good practice to tie the knots low down as shown. The Quad fulfills these requirements of a good anchor: 1) It is automatically equalized (as long as the two anchor points Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital. The obvious use is in anchor construction. What’s cool about the quad? Good load distribution Minimal extension Fully redundant Quick to set up and break down, no knots to untie Super strong (would you believe 40 kN?!) Bonus, two independent and load distributed master points If the strength of your anchor points are difficult to assess (e. What if you don't have that gear with you? Here's an alternative: Simply use a pair of 120 cm slings. A Quad, basically, is a pre-built system of some cord and a few biners that will help you address many of the points mentioned above in a timely manner. Jun 7, 2024 · The quad anchor, first mentioned (I think) around 2006 by John Long in his book “ Climbing Anchors ”, was an attempt to have the Holy Grail in anchors. However, this also reduces the lateral range over which the quad self-equalizes. 9koli 3gyqox3 x2bs v5 fv4j nxn i7srl pvwhi1 sgvbr qlv2l